The former capital of the Spanish empire, Toledo has roughly 2,500 years of history and its rich blend of Jewish, Moorish, and Christian culture (yes they lived and thrived together) make it a European art center. While there is much to see in the old town of Toledo, it can easily be taken in with a one day walking tour and lunch. Writer Keith Evans takes us through the city with as many facts and finds as you might need to explore this Spanish glory.

For an unbelievable day trip from Madrid, hop the 25 minute high speed train to Toledo. This medieval fortified city sits atop a hill with the Tagus River carving a spectacular gorge on three sides. It is so well preserved that the entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

When arriving at the train station, you may take a bus to the city center and start your walking tour in any direction you like. However, I would recommend hopping a taxi from the station instead, and starting at the Alcazar. The ride is short and inexpensive, but you’ll definitely want to bus or taxi as it is steep. Back to the Alcazar, while a fortified structure has been at the site since 3rd century Roman times, the building as we know it today was finished in 1535. The inside of the Alcazar houses a military museum, with much information on the siege of the castle during the Spanish Civil War. You definitely want to walk around the outside of the structure for some spectacular photos of the building, and vistas of the Tagus and the deep gorge it carves around the city.

Cathedral, Toledo

Toledo is a difficult city to navigate so you should purchase a map at the train station and also pick up a secondary map for reference. It may sound redundant, but the streets are very narrow and winding, one map may be better for certain parts of the city.

From the Alcazar, make your way to the Cathedral that sits right in the middle of the city. This is one of the finest cathedrals in Europe, trust me. You will want to spend some time here. It is a stunning gothic structure with abundant spires and no shortage of detail. Entrance was 6 Euros when I was last there in May of 2009 and well worth it. The scope, detail, and beauty of the lustrous insides are awe inspiring. Aside from the dazzling altar, massive organ, and the astounding wood carvings in the choir area, there is a gallery of European masters. El Greco was born in Toledo and the Cathedral houses 18 of his works. Along with El Greco, you will see works of Titian, Velazquez, Goya, Caravaggio, and Rubens. Do not rush the Cathedral, and be sure to make your way to the front façade after exiting for some great photos of the charming square joining the cathedral and the Palacio Arzobispal.

Once finished with the Cathedral, I like to make my way due west straight across the city toward the synagogues. There are some lovely gardens along the gorge on this far western side of the city. The next two sites to take in after finding the Jardines Del Transito are the Sinagoga Del Transito and the El Greco Museum; they sit right next to each other.

When done with El Greco and the synagogue, make your way to a quick stop at the Sinagoga Santa Maria La Blanca. This structure was completed in 1180 and turned into a church in the 15th century. Really fantastic architecture on the inside. The next site to head to is right down the street from here and one of the finest Toledo has to offer, the Monastery of San Juan De Los Reyes. This 15th century monastery is pure gothic splendor with an alluring courtyard and hallways to its spectacular high ceilinged chapel and decorative altar. It is a definite “do not miss” when visiting Toledo.

Courtyard of Monastery, San Juan de los Reyes

After taking in the monastery, make your way up the hill through the charming, narrow, winding streets to the Jesuit church of San Ildefonso. While not as old as other great churches of Toledo, its staunch white interior, hardwood floors, and beautiful altar are worth a quick look. But the true purpose for this stop is to make your way up to the tower. From here, you have a fantastic rooftop view of Toledo, the cathedral, and the Alcazar. It is simply an incredible photo opportunity.

Those are my recommendations for the city center of Toledo and depending on the level of interest, weather, a stop for lunch, and your group, should take a solid four hours to complete.

Rooftop view from San Ildefonso, Toledo

Other sites to try and take in before hitting the train back are the Mezquita del Christo de la Luz, the churches of Santiago del Arrabal and Santo Tome (home of one of El Greco’s most famous works), any of the palaces, and anything you come across on your own. I always like to walk my way back to the train station (as it is all downhill) and cross the Puente de Alcantara. The bridge’s origins date to Roman times, but the baroque structure you cross today was finished in the 15th century.

Puente de Alcantara, Toledo

Toledo truly is a must see if you can steal yourself away from Madrid. Due to its close proximity to Madrid, its small navigable size, and the history and beauty it has to offer, Toledo is a no-brainer. Take the day to see it.

Written by Keith Evans

Photography by Keith and Gwen Evans

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